A proverbial Teeter Totter: Business Casual & Business Ridiculous

There’s an unwritten code in fashion. It’s the scrambling and rambling of a self absorbed madman. The kind of inner child that enables Lord John Marbury to storm the white house armed with a disheveled pocket square and reading glasses on an antique Victorian chain and somehow allow this witty juvenile to sustain even a shred of human decency.  You see, fashion to most of us is an idea. It’s a thought; a thought that dares us to the unexpected, the witty, and the ant-benign. There is however a difference between business casual and business ridiculous. Fashion, for all its woes and throes I’m afraid, is the main culprit.

This wont turn the heads you want..

I heard a man once tell me about wearing a bow tie and fancy suspenders to an interview. He swore up and down that it would set him apart from the other candidates. He would no longer be known as the man from Pen State... nay, he would be the man with the bow tie and fancy suspenders. Somehow this was better than being Jack, a candidate, better than actually being suited for the job at hand. Now, the next thing you know Jack's the guy that wore the bow tie, not Jack from St Louis, or jack the witty, the clever, the brilliant - the Bow Tie Guy. If you want to wear a bow tie, do it, own it - but don't become the bow tie. It's you, not a pasta shaped neck piece. Remember that. 

Defending individuality doesn't come with a sword and shield, it comes from simply staying true to what, and who you are. 

The lodge is not equal to the office.
Ever.

In this constant fight of style and soul there will be changes, there will be hurdles, and there will be challenges. There’s a way to adopt a fashion minded front, and still retain your nature, it just takes temperament. Nevertheless, I understand the plight of the soul searching fashion victim, and in many, many ways defend him from the masses. But we really shouldn't get get ideas on our meeting attire from Ralph Lauren's winter collection center piece, well…at least not in full force. There’s something your boss and coworkers will find offensive about faded corduroys tucked into your wool socks and up-laced duck boots. 

Fashion is a raging trend of purpose, a change in the wind or the rising of the tide - and just like a pot of swirling water, swimming against the grain will in time, lead to a new grain. The same is true in most things. Ralph Waldo Emerson once said, “To be yourself in a world that is trying to make you something else is the greatest of achievements”. So, do yourself and Ralph a favor - instead of the plaid jacket, how about a plaid pocket square – or a pair of Cole Haan Duck shoes with tasteful dark cords and a brown herring bone jacket? Gimmicks aren't fashion, they aren't style – there just gimmicks. Bosses don't typically promote gimmicks, they promote free thinkers and go getters. 

Gingham and Plaid are better as accessories
than jacket colors

Still, there’s a line between swimming against the grain and all out jumping out of the pot. I don’t care how awesome that plaid jacket looks on the mannequin in the store’s window, it’s not for the board meeting. The same should be said for scarfs indoors. Remember, is business casual, not business ridiculous. The general rule of thumb is actually quite simple, if you wouldn't wear it as part of your usual ensemble, or on a date with a prospective lady; don’t wear it at work when you’re trying to impress the clients with your savvy. Gimmicks have a way of taking over, becoming more about the trick than the man. Rolled suit pants and saddle shoes aren't avant garde – they’re ridiculous – unless you’re sitting on the beach with a mao-tai – in which case, impressing anyone at all shouldn't be on the radar. 

I've said it many, many times. Style and fashion may be related, but there aren't on each other’s favorite caller lists. Charles Bukowski, the famed American poet once said, “Style is the answer to everything; a fresh way to approach a dull or dangerous thing. To do a dull thing with style is preferable to doing a dangerous thing without it. To do a dangerous thing with style is what I call art.”

Be that as it may, in the end – it’s how you own it that defines the little red line between fashion and style.

Bring me that horizon - and my favorite coat.

David finds utility in the US Navy Inspired Construction

The onset of winter has to be my favorite mini-season of them all. It’s not quite winter, it’s not quite the end of fall. The fellas are all grabbing their scarfs and beanie caps, the ladies are pulling out the knee high boots, and everyone seems so content to gather after work for Happy Hour. Perhaps it’s the fact that were all three deep bundled under our winter lager infused smiles, wool sweaters, cashmere scarfs and knit caps that can’t see the weight piling on – god bless the holidays. It truly is about being jolly.

As a man, there is one quintessential fashion item that literally snaps to attention during this period of time – the Pea Coat. 

Shakespeare once said, “O that I were a Fool! I am ambitious for a motley coat!” Ol’ Willy was surely talking about the colored jester coat, and not the US Navy inspired navy blue woolen destrier that we sling over our shoulders in the rain, hail sleet and snow like a loyal postman. Nevertheless, the idea remains the – a good coat can say a lot about you, before even you can.

The Pea Coat has been copied for hundreds of years. According to the US Navy, and in this case, the ne’er wrong and aptly prompt Wikipedia: [This] heavy topcoat, worn in cold, miserable weather by seafaring men was once tailored from pilot cloth -- a heavy, coarse, stout kind of twilled blue cloth with the nap on one side. The cloth was sometimes called P-cloth for the initial letter of the word and the garment made from it was called a p-jacket -- later a pea coat. The term has been used since 1723 to denote coats made from this wool "P Cloth".

The huge lapels, long flanks and overall fabric construction was apparent in the early naval coats of the revolution, the civil war, and even today. It’s timeless, simplistic, and above all utilitarian. A good Pea Coat weighs as much as a small dog. It can hold a small arsenal of gloves, caps, scarfs, lighters, and trinkets. And most importantly, this jacket can last a lifetime.

But what should one buy? What version should one get. I’m my mind there really is only one version available; the version that Sailor has already, or could potentially wear. That means the only true “Pea” coat is a US Naval Issue Pea Coat. They’ll usually set you back a couple hundred bucks depending on what type you get. They are sized a bit large since sailors match the coat size to that of their dress jackets. So, if you wear a 40R, don’t hesitate and get a 44L thinking you have to size it over your suit jacket or sweaters.

The three basic types are the Basic, the waist short navy blue Pea Coat. The thigh length Bridge Coat, originally worn by Chief Petty Officers. And my personal favorite, the long Captain’s Bridge Coat. Complete with shoulder boards and gold buttons. You can wear it out casually, throw it over a suit, and even use it on the high seas when you have to fend of that perfect storm. Just remember to get a cup of Navy black coffee for the road, er..the sea, as it were. 

Fair winds and following seas.

.

Suit up my tan faced children, follow well in order

There was a time not that long ago; a man’s fashion sense was his strongest asset. It spoke louder and more often than he did.

The folks at GQ remind us of that with arguably the best style and fashion bible a man can own. Dressing the Man. Cary Grant, Humphrey Bogart, Fred Astaire, Frank Sinatra – they weren't just giants in their time, they were giants of fashion, pioneers of style.

Men used to be proud of their style. It was as macho as sports, hunting, drinking and womanizing. Today, the modern man gets lost in a sea of mega malls, Eddie Bauer and Ambercrombie & Fitch.

The modern two piece monstrosity has the greatest range of anything in your closet. There’s no line of simplicity or formality that can’t be crossed. There’s no occasion to steep, or rich in tradition that it can’t be broached with a structured jacket. In men’s fashion, it can become its own identity. Think of Barney Stinson and the iconic call to bromanced arms that is “Suit Up”. Barney wasn't the first - nay...Elvis wouldn't be caught dead on stage without a jacket.

Alas, today in the modern workplace it’s dying. There just aren't that many jobs today that demand a man wear the old two piece. Unless you actually have your own door in cubicle jail, odds are, you don’t wear a suit to work. There are some exceptions, but admittedly, it is still quite rare.

Whether it’s a three piece, a two piece… linen, cotton, or virgin wool – nothing says class like a suit. But you can’t just throw on any old Jose’ Bank discount jacket on and be in the Casablanca club. Still, you don’t have to live and work in a suit infested, Wall Street wannabe, and uppity banker environment to enjoy the quality of “merino wool” on your back. The trick is to follow the five keys to suit greatness.

Rule 1 – You don’t always need the jacket
The suit should always be worn complete when one enters the work place, and when one exits. Everything in between, is a grey area. Unless it’s 109 outside, don’t throw your jacket over your arm on your way out.

You went to pain staking efforts to get it fitted, tested, matched, and now it’s wrinkled across your forearm. And for the love of God and all the suits he owns… NEVER, ever, ever hang it over your chair, you ruin the lapels and it just looks tacky.

Get a hook for your cube wall or invest in a hanger.

Rule 2 – Color is key
Slate grey and charcoal suits are timeless. Like the Mad Men of the 1960’s they scream class. You can wear brown shoes, black shoes, loafers, even boat shoes if you feel so inclined. Black suits are more formal, so try to treat it that way. Wear your best laced up black shoes, simple socks, etc. Navy Blue suits have that G-Man look that so many of us love these days – best when paired with some dark brown shoes and tie.

It goes without saying that one’s belt should almost always match his shoes.


Rule 3 – Never sit on the button
This is two parts really. First, button your back pockets. If your wallet is too big, get a smaller wallet. You don’t look like a savvy investor with that beast of a leather billfold, you look like George Castanza. Second, always undo the suit button, and it should almost always be just one, when you sit down. Suits only have a bottom button for decoration.

Rule 4 – Stay off the gimmick wagon
It’s a suit, not a costume. Stay out of the huge baggy pants. They don’t hide anything; they just make you look like you’re wearing a flying squirrel jump suit. Really, pleats aren't all that bad, it all depends. Pleats and ‘spenders look great on a heavier man. Conversely, on a slender build, it just looks geeky. Slim leg pants look great with today’s modern suit.

One more - if your suit is loud, your shirt shouldn’t be, and vice versa. Stripes and stripes don’t always look bad, but it’s a slippery slope. You want a little flair? Buy your shirts about an inch to long and shoot the cuff out past your jacket sleeve. Just avoid having some kind of kitschy trend that doesn't represent you.


Rule 5 – Always, always, always get it fitted to your shape
Unless you just fit the 42 Reg mold, you need to get the garment fit to your shape. Today’s modern suit pant should have one small break in the front, and none in the back. Just like the Army’s Class A’s.

The Jacket should fit squarely, and snug on the shoulders. You should have the coat length rest to your first thumb knuckle if your arm is at your side. Keep about a fist or just under inside your main jacket button, it will help you breathe. However, there’s nothing wrong with a good snug jacket though. If you’re like me, and you like to wear your jackets open more than closed, but a size small and it will look that much more trim.

The modern workplace is yours for the taking. So grab your jacket, your best shirt and strut like you've never strut before.

Style Among Us: Vol II - Patrick

If necessity is the mother of invention, reinvention is its grandfather. People will undoubtedly strive to do things easier, and more efficiently. Business Casual is no different. There’s a lane for attire in today’s modern cubicle farm, and somewhere in that freeway that is the shopping mall, is a style that a man can be proud of.

Patrick’s style is timeless, easy going, and upgrade-able. 

One of the things great leaders do is never look rushed, overburdened or out of place. The tie knot might be loose, the sleeves rolled up, but rest assured that Patrick is one grey blazer away from briefing the CFO. The look is a shade shy of haphazard, and that's the idea - like he’s letting you know how to keep it light hearted in the office.

Grey’s and pinks seem to always work well with each other. They have this avant garde’ throwback quality – like Mad Men and Lacoste working together. How else would you get a pink sock tie and slate slacks into work without someone doing a triple take. The key is achieving personality without losing one's sense of comfort or purpose.

But make no mistake...fashion and style are not mutually exclusive. Like good dance partners they need to practice, be stressed, and bonded to one another. One without the other is impossible, and yet there is always a dominant lead. Patrick proves that he leads with style, rather than fashion. Style is timeless, and much, much harder to define. You may not be able to state it individually, but you know it when you see it. Style's not about turning heads, breaking rules or making good impressions - its about being free. It's about being yourself.

Its not the 60's anymore - and yet, in Pat's office there's a jacket slung over a chair and a a skinny black tie clasped behind a crisp white shirt. The last time men rolled sleeves like this at work, they were sipping bourbon and smoking filter-less cigarettes between meetings. 

Patrick reminds me of a modern day Cary Grant, or Humphrey Bogart. It's reinvented, re purposed  and tailored to fit both his ideals and his ambitions. Patrick doesn't care what you think - he cares what he thinks. 

That's the very definition of style.

Take a load off... Take a load for free

If you don’t recognize the song, you didn’t spend nearly as much time in a hot car as I did with an old man that loved the 60’s. I find myself harking back to the simpler times, the easy breezy times that my parents missed so much.

What 60’s/70’s easy listening has to fashion is simple – let go of that weight and "take a load off man". The summer heat is fully upon us, and with that the ever growing realization that wool is entirely too much. Linen suits are reserved for the beach weddings, and Seersucker Suits are reserved for land owning Georgia millionaires, and they should never be worn without a pocket square, bow tie and a wide brim straw hat. Be weary of the whole gambino unless the occasion calls for it - or you can just be that damn good. Both require equal amounts of heart.

Staying fashion-cool when it’s as hot as Saudi Arabia requires less skill than one might think. The general rule of thumb is to avoid the heavy wools and polyesters of the winter in favor of cotton, seersucker, and linen. Take a lesson from the fashionate south. Need to speak volumes? Get a pair of dark blue or navy pants and a fabric belt, and pair it up with your best white shirt. A white and blue seersucker jacket just can’t be wrong in the dead heat. It demands respect, or a mint julep, and that all has to with where you are in the country – and how close/far away the derby is. You could however, substitute t he seersucker for a well pressed linen jacket in just about any color. But remember, unless visions of your college econ professor or avant garde be your forte, keep your jacket significantly lighter than your pants.

Now, where can a fashioned soul get this look and what’s it going to run you? Joseph A. Bank sells Seersucker jackets for roughly $125 all seasons, maybe slightly higher in the summer. But remember, a quality jacket is going to run you about $250 at any given time. Seersucker and Cotton is relatively cheap and easy to produce. Don’t be afraid to roll your jackets sleeves up, and pair it with a pair of jeans. There’s a light heartiness in summer weight fabric, and that covers so much more than work attire. Be free, be easy and take a load off.

Style Among Us - Jason P.

You see them everyday, but who are they!! The Trendsetters.....the Misfits, the Freaks - the Enemy. (Props to anyone who knows the song I'm referencing there). This is a new, and hopefully repeating segment where I take a look – dare I say do an expose’ of those around us that set fashion standards that are hard to meet, manage and ascertain. These men are the Fashion heroes that give us our inspiration. 

I asked Jason to summarize his style for the readers. His exact words, “Its [expletive deleted] Awesome!!”

I agree. It’s a comfortable, vintage, and riddled with well placed class and color.

Jason’s into bold color, wide and timeless vintage patterns, and forcing the stylized layman to snap a double take. Red, white and blue gingham is the best summer pattern that I can think of, the vintage watch  lets me know he watches Mad Men, (or that he should) - but honestly, what sets his whole ensemble off are the bright red shoes, complete with circa 1995’ thick laces. 

What I like the most about this is that he's not rocking the obligatorily black Chuck Taylors. Charles made some great shoes, but it takes guts to branch out and get some red rubber bottom deck shoes. I think he'd do well to get some slim fit jeans, but one step at a time....

Jason told me that he loves it when people stop to laugh or ask him about the audacity of his items or outfits – it reminds him of what they are missing, and reinforces the jealousy that so many people don’t even know they have. Jason knows that wearing a red blazer isn’t for everyone, but fortune favors the bold. It's about standing out in a crowd, making a statement, and changing men's fashion one shoe at a time.  So here’s to a man making a bold statement among us; here's to Jason. 

Something Borrowed

One of the trends that often sweeps the modern workplace like an Iraqi dust storm is the Thrift-Store-Steal. It’s like the flu, or a bad chest cough/cold combination. The brave face it head on, hoping that they’ll test their immune system like a bad psych test with an unhappy ending. The pansies avoid you like the plague, holding their noses and mouths in horror, and scurrying into the corners of the office like cockroaches.

Now - I believe in thriftiness- but.....do it right, or as they say in the military, "prepare to receive the business". I am by no means advocating hatred, ridicule, or denied amnesty to those that frequent thrift stores in search of vintage jackets. What I am saying is that we have to have established rules of thrift fashion.

Re-purposing an old military jacket or sweater on a casual day is perfectly fine –when done with class. But wearing a suit that someone died in, (and still smelling like it) is not cool. Style and fashion are partners, not twins, and therein - not mutually exclusive. Understand your limits. I’ve seen a vintage cammo fatigue jacket look great with slacks, but most of the time, it belongs on a paintball field. Your best bet is a Marine Class B or Class A shirt – maybe even something from the vintage days of the Air Force. 

There are thousands of deals out there, if one knows where to look. Check out swap meets, consignment shops, and Salvation Army distribution centers in nice parts of town. Brush up on your old designer lingo and know what cuts will stay timeless. Oscar De La Renta used to tear it up with Versace and Armani in the 80’s, but his style has fallen out of the limelight in some circles – and you can cash in on that in your search for deals. Wanna rock the Prep? Look for old Land’s End. They ruled the catalog 90’s and defined the easy living that your dad loved – he's still in spirit there, smoking that pipe and listening to Bruce Hornsby and the Range.

But also – know where to stop! Butterfly collars were all the rage in the 1970’s, but they just get lumped into the 80’s party and Maimi Themed club apparel. That means, no go for work son! The same goes for your old Military boots.  They’re comfortable. And I can totally understand why someone would gravitate to them on a boring Wednesday. But understand that there are very, very, VERY few instances where tan suede combat boots don’t look completely out of place.

The trick here is knowing where class and style meet. It’s on a street corner that doesn’t have a XXX movie rental or liquor store. Your dad’s old tie collection, a brass tie chain or collar bar from 1971, or even your old dress blues military sweater are all great options if paired with the right ensemble.

In today’s modern cubicle world, there isn’t time for wet suits, face paint, and combat knifes – the same rule applies for the clothing that these field items accompany into battle.  I’ll always like the concept of repurposing, but if we can’t find that subtle line in the sand, we’ll never get through the board meeting snicker free.